This can also cause the needle to break every time you start sewing. This happens because the upper thread will not be able to grab the lower thread tightly enough to make everything nice and tight. That is also how Peter Nitz stitches and Hermes. Most important thing to master is to pull your stitches firmly and at the right tension without having a jerky pull. When this happens to me, I take it to my sewing machine repair person to be adjusted. I was making so many masks, I stopped taking the pins out (not the safest practice) to reduce the amount of time for each mask. When you switch to the zigzag function, you may find that it only sews in a straight line. first, you need to make sure that the handwheelis tightened. Zigzag stitches can be made by sewing on a straight stitch foot and holding the needle at a 45-degree angle while you sew. For stretch fabrics. The zigzag stitch will stretch with the elastic without breaking of the stitches.Use a multi stitch zigzag stitch for a strong attachment. We often choose this stitch when we are working with very visible sewing seems like hems. Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated! The needle did hit pins occasionally but never broke. Depending on the answers to the questions, try rethreading the machine (both top spool and bottom) and change the needle. YOu could try the zig-zag through just a couple of layers of fabric and see if you get the same results without batting. If you fail to do so you might also have problems with the needle breaking too often. This can also cause the needle to break every time you start sewing. One thing is for sure that when the zigzag is not working right, you will not be able to do a lot of stitches. Place the bobbin in the bobbin case so that the thread unwinds in the correct direction. 0 Likes, 0 Comments - Lorna Pearman (@peargirlknits) on Instagram: ""DNA Cowl" ~ This cowl is reversible, with a cabled DNA strand on one side, and a zigzag moss" Check the thread for knots and unevenness and make sure it will not get stuck in the eye of the needle. This is normally a problem with the bobbin thread or the tension of the needle thread. Wallets, slip cases, belts, BDSM gear, historical/periodical leathercrafting and some other odds and ends scattered around. The correct zig-zag width was no longer my priority. My experience has been that you need a decent thickness of leather to get slanted stitches on both sides. It can do irregular stitches, not to stitch at all or simply just cause stitching problems. Hi Cathy, I havent zig-zagged through batting so I cant say for sure. A zig zag stitch is a geometric side to side stitch used for seam finishing, decorative sewing and sewing stretch fabric. here is a pic of 3 lines I did the exact same way. This can be used for applique or buttonholes. So the first thing to check here is a tension of the upper thread. You can use other presser feet like the overcast foot and zigzag stitching to create different types of hems. Leather Lady Productions all rights reserved 2006-2022 When I used that same thread at a bigger SPI (7spi or so) than it would slant again. You may find that a few stray fabric threads still come through but using zig zag for seam finishing is a really strong way to stop seam allowances fraying and will make your seam last longer. My preference is always the simple zig zag but I know lots of people do use the 3 step. You can make them as wide and long as your sewing machine allows. alackofcolor, June 27, 2014 in Sewing Leather, So I recently got a diamond pricking iron in order to get that nice zig-zag pattern in my hand stitching and I've watched this video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y0EL7K2NhYs. Its very important to always check this before you start doing zig-zag stitches. I tried a couple of stitches. I made some coasters which I grooved on both sides and sewed with a .8mm tiger thread and it looks cool but the stitches are straight as a arrow and recessed into the leather. If you have to make adjustments to tension for the zig-zag stitch, write down the tension dial number for a quick reference in the future. lay your seams with the correct side up and sew around using a straight stitch ( 3,5mm long) making sure the catch the hem on the wrong side. So, even if your sewing life can exist without this stitch (A Straight stitch is all that you need for most of all sewing), you may not want to. The nigel video are great but aren't his slants of his pricking iron going the opposite direction in most videos instead of like this ///// they slant towards him. Zig zag stitch can be used to secure elastic to the waist of stretch bottoms such as skirts and leggings. They are: 1. Check how your bobbin is inserted into the case. Now make a similar stitch on the opposite side edge. Now your fabric is safe from fraying. Now you know where the problem is happening. Penetration - the needle penetrates the fabric carrying the needle thread. Its a great stitch to use for topstitching, embellishment, and to strengthen seams. This is a problem I struggled with for a while. A very closely made zig zag stitch forms the buttonhole. (2023), How to Wash Jeans Without Shrinking (and How to Prevent It 2023), 10 Super Easy Ways to Sew Faster Full Guide of 2023, Does Acrylic Paint Wash Off Clothes? Press the overcast edge over to one side. Place your fabric under the presser foot. (I was.). 2) Set your machine to the zigzag stitch setting. Here is a link I found that is pretty easy to follow this is exactly how I stitch if I want the back to also be slanted and it works great. The other issue is that, on the back side, the first stitch is always dropped relative to the rest of the line. Such as the one in this picture. I think that your tension is off. High-speed, Cylinder-bed, 1-needle, Lockstitch, Zigzag Stitching Machine with Automatic Thread Trimmer. Check your scrap and then adjust the stitch width and length to suit your project. Yes the slits are thin but I use them to mark the spacing and punch most of the way through the leather. Read more on, How to make a buttonhole with a sewing machine. Sew a line of straight stitches no more than 2 mm away from the center line on each side (on the right above). Here are the most important of these many uses of the king of all sewing machine stitches the zig zag stitch. In actual practice, the stitching is often next to the seamline instead of . Lycra bindings can also be sewn with a zig zag stitch and add a pretty pop of color and look really professional. The zig zag has 2 options: stitch length and stitch width. Hand & Machine Stitching Crafts. If that doesnt work, adjust the tension. It has a very tight weave and feels like duck or canvas. Anyway that's my two cents and a different way to visualize, perhaps some one else who knows more will have better help. If the machine will not do a zigzag stitching you might be using the wrong presser foot. Do not use the sewing machine as a toy. Thanks for helping me, by the way. The thread you're using is definitely not too thin. 5 thoughts on Zig Zag Stitch 15 most important uses. As the follower moves in and out, the needle bar is moved from side to side. Wrap: E-wrap; Slip: NO; Wrapping lines up: NO If you have to change the tension you can do so by turning that little screw mounted on the bobbin case: But first, you need to make sure that this is actually the problem. Set the machine on a high width setting and a short length setting for a close edging stitch. Everything needs to be in perfect sync in order for the needle to meet the bobbin at the right time and catch the bobbin thread. You can post now and register later. If you use a matching color the stitching won't be visible from a distance. Required fields are marked *. 3. The zigzag stitching can also be done loosely in applique, if you are using a fabric that would not fray. They are probably as many sewing machines as there are stitches. Always check your sewing machine tension before trying the stitch on new fabrics. This strength giving stitch is made with yours truly the ever humble but multi-talented zigzag stitch. Your email address will not be published. So you came this far and youre still having a problem with your stitches. Zig-zag stitch problems. Loosen the screws in the cam and turn it clockwise to increase the speed or counterclockwise to . 2. using the horizontal spool pin instead of the vertical one. There are five basic steps to the formation of all stitch types. It all depends on your fabric and your project. Next, you need to make sure you have pulled enough fret to the back of the machine before you start sewing. The same thing can happen if youre using athin thread with a heavy duty needle. The easiest way to hem a garment is to use the hemmer foot and the zig zag stitch. Also, like or followThe Ruffled Purseon Facebook. and sew a zig zag stitch as close as you can get to the edge, slightly over it. All rights reserved. This fixed the loose stitches on both the front and back of the fabric. Also, dots on the thread circles mean that the thread is coming out towards me, x's mean it's going away from me. You could also experience bird nesting because you were threading your machine with the footer down. Just like with the straight stitch, now push the reverse button and sew an inch backwards (back-stitching) and then go forward again. Check out our zig zag stitch embroidery selection for the very best in unique or custom, handmade pieces from our shops. This strength giving stitch is made with yours truly the ever humble but multi-talented zigzag stitch. Manually made buttonholes use a zigzag stitch in various stitch widths and stitch lengths. Zig zag stitch is used to hold the elastic in place and then stitch over the edge. Make sure you sign up forSnappy Scissors (myFREEnewsletter sent directly to your inbox) for ongoing sewing inspiration and education. But if you want your stitching to be slanted the process is a bit different. You have now knotted your thread and can continue sewing. This can sometimes happen if the needle hit the bobbin case. Online Sewing Class: Mindful Mending Register Today! Zig zag stitch can be adjusted by changing the settings on the machine. You can stitch beautiful borders for your projects with creative use of this stitch. As a result of sewing through thick layers and over the pins, the needle became bent and developed a burr on the end. Check out the post, In sewing machine applique the closely done zig zag stitch which resembles a satin stitch is usually used to attach the applique pieces on to the base fabric; you can also use a multi stitch zig zag stitch for this. These settings differ from machine to machine and brand to brand so always check with the manual before you start. Ive never had to adjust thread tension before so I used the sewing machine instruction manual to figure out what to do. One side of the needle stayed in the machine, the other was still attached to the thread. A zig zag stitch can be used to sew on buttons. Twisted stitches use more yarn; for alternate use the Zigzag stitch (#5 below). It was the second stitch I learned to sew and it's included with the straight stitch in my free online sewing class, Starting to Sew. However, almost all the stitches were loose on the back (in addition to being deformed looking). When sewing the zig-zag stitch on scrap layers from both types of bean bags, I didnt get the puckering and tunnel effect. Some machines have a zig zag or satin stitch foot which has a slight groove underneath and a wider hole. When we are sewing with stretchy fabrics such as jersey, lycra, and spandex, we have to avoid the straight stitches. Make sure your machine is set on zigzag and sew an inch forward. The zig-zag slip stitch join is a cute join with a slightly "Celtic" look. Cloudflare Ray ID: 7a176ae9cedab828 You can try making the zigzag a little narrower, or, as the previous poster suggested, add a bit of stabilizer along the edge when stitching. Next, I would work on adjusting the tension. I have actually asked him and he told me how he does it..he said he casts the stitch most of the time but not always depending on the thickness of the leather and if the back will be showing. This is the quickest way but you may have a small amount of puckering. If you have the time I would try it again with 2 scrap pieces stitched together. Making sure the needle was out of the fabric, I adjusted the stitch width to try out a zig-zag stitch. The first image shows this on a digital machine, the second on a mechanical model. This type of straight stitch is often used in hemming and seaming fabrics, as it helps to prevent fraying and provides extra durability. Make one adjustment at a time. Buy bigger sheets and use a ruler and rotary cutter to cut it into 1/4 strips to make it cost . Don't go crazy here, you need some width to accommodate the zigzags - leave at least 7mm (1/4in) or so. Full Article: Binding Leotards and Swimwear. My problem was the opposite of this. Here, the lady has zig zag braids accompanied by stitch braids and cornrows that look totally stunning. Keep the fabric pieces side by side and using an edge joining feet you can make zig zag stitches joining the two pieces together. A long stitch, zig zagging close together, produces a stitch called satin stitch. Blonde braiding hair has been used to create the hairstyle, and we love how the ends of the braids have been made curly. How are you punching your holes? Nicki, Hello, The rest is just a matter of preference and a lot of practice. On most zigzag stitch sewing machines, you can set the zigzag width anywhere from 0mm to the machine's highest width setting. The stitches are almost on top of each other. The SPI to thread size and type of leather all play a factor. Narrow zigzag: opt for a very narrow setting with the zigzag, with the stitch length equal to the stitch width; Overedge stitch: a specialty stitch that locks over the edge of the fabric so it stitches and finishes a seam in one pass; Straight stretch stitch: this stitch looks like 3 parallel rows of straight stitches Like most of the zig zag applications, if you use a matching color, it will blend into the fabric and be hardly visible. Slip stitch into the corresponding square from right side to wrong side. I don't find that it needs to be thick as long as it has some firmness on the grain side. If you havent done these things, I suggest trying just to make sure. I was doing a fairly thick project the other day and was having simular issues. A couple of stitches in, the crunching sound happened again, the fabric gathered, and the thread broke. It is a flat join and can be easily and continuously worked, which makes bringing your squares together very quick and quite the enjoyable experience. It is a versatile stitch that can be used for several purposes, including seam finishing, attaching trim, reinforcing edges, and creating decorative borders. It should stay the same for almost any sewing project. Its not that it will damage the machine it will just make sewing much harder and cost trouble with the stitches. I have this same issue, but only with an athletic material (relatively thin wicking jersey). You are the only site that had true hep for the pucker in my zig zag stiching. As the cam rotates, a fingerlike follower, connected to the needle bar, rides along the cam and tracks its indentations. For some sewing techniques with this stitch, it can be helpful to use a Satin Stitch Foot to help prevent the fabric from puckering. Most of the time you can use the all-purpose presser foot for sewing zig zag. I say more or less because there were a couple of stitches in there where it was slanted on both sides. Zigzag stitch places two or more rows of thread in a straight line. Utilitarian Zigzag Stitch. This is a lot easier to do if you have a table in front of you. When creating a zigzag stitch, the side to side motion of the sewing machine 's needle is controlled by a cam. But for sufficiently thick leather, here's a diagram I made in response to my own questions about how you get nice zig-zags on both sides of the leather, whether the slots are slanted \\\\ or ////. As you do this, you should be able to see the needle go down and grab the bobbin thread and pull it up to form a nice stitch. The thread tension information in my sewing machine instruction manual said, It [tension] can be adjusted to a lower number for less tension on the upper thread, if the bobbin thread seems to be showing on the top side of the fabric.. You should always make sure you are feeding the machine at the correct speed. More on sewing machine applique here, Join Fabric trims and ribbons securely to fabric with the use of zig zag stitch. You shouldnot be stitching over the cord. Usually, a small zig zag is used but you may want to increase the size if you have lace with a thick border. Good luck! Lets say your upper thread tension is set to zero. Maybe you loosened it in order to wind thread on the spool. Zig ag stitch is used to sew the secure the elastic and to give a durable stitch that won't break when stretched. Just like with the straight stitch, the stitch length is going to determine how far apart the stitches are. Another reason why your zigzag stitch isn't working properly is when you mistakenly hit the double-needle switch. Instead of forming nice stitches, the machine will simply place all of the stitches in the same spot. What Worked for Me: When I did my initial swatch, the top and bobbin threads were the same color. I need to work on getting the thread to sit in the top of the slits instead of sliding down towards the middle. When the foot is lowered to begin stitching, the discs come back together and apply the selected tension to the thread. 1. When confronted with a sewing problem that I dont know how to solve, my preference is to talk to someone about it. Thanks. Experiment on a scrap of fabric and make sure it doesn't stretch the fabric out. The zigzag stitch is a basic stitch used in sewing and embroidery. You can use multi stitch zigzag stitch for this. The zigzag is an incredibly versatile stitch with both utilitarian and decorative applications. Join with a ss from right side to wrong side into the last chain of the working edge of your Square A as indicated on diagram below. Table Of Contents The thread is not receiving the tension it needs. It creates a lovely zig zagging stitch pattern and it's easy to learn with a detailed step by step photo tutorial. By sewing a seam with a narrow zigzag stitch rather than a wide zigzag stitch, the stitching will stretch with a stretchy or knit fabric. Zig zag stitch can be adjusted by changing the settings on the machine. Simple tutorial on how to make a hand sew zig zag stitch? I believe this is what ensures that you get the zig-zag on both sides. Use it to secure the straight edge on thin lace or both edges on a wider lace. What Worked for Me: Rethreading the machine was the easiest solution so I did that first. Each mask was a double layer of 100% cotton and flannel, and both sides of the mask had 3 pleats that I pinned prior to sewing. Here are the 20 best zig zag patterned braiding styles which are flattering and will help you get the most unique mane you've ever had. Including how to change the tension of the bobbin.if(typeof ez_ad_units!='undefined'){ez_ad_units.push([[320,50],'sewingtrip_com-banner-1','ezslot_4',109,'0','0'])};__ez_fad_position('div-gpt-ad-sewingtrip_com-banner-1-0'); If your sewing machine is skipping stitches, the first thing to check s the needle. I love sewing, fabric, fashion, embroidery, doing easy DIY projects and then writing about them. If you are using the wrong needle for your machine (or the project) it might not catch the bobbin thread below and it might be skipping stitches. When my zig-zag issues first happened with the bean bags, I took the swatch over to her to get her input on what happened and how I could solve the problems. It will primarily show on the back of the fabric. If your sewing machine with only sew in reverse this should be the first thing to check: Check the buttonhole knob and make sure it isnt stuck in reverse. The first problem is that I'm only getting that nice zig-zag diamond pattern on one side of the leather (in my case the front side), while the other side is more or less a straight line (see attached photos). Leather Lady Productions all rights reserved 2006-2022. Ive followed all the manual instructions for zigzag settings but its still sewing straightno back and forth at all. In this article, we will Cover some of the most common problems with stitches and we would also list the solution for the problems. Last update: August 15, 2020. When that happens to my machine, I take it to a sewing machine repair person to be adjusted. I think the timing being off will also cause skipped stitches, and that using a wide zigzag or twin needle is less forgiving than a straight stitch. Again, the length of 4.0 remains constant. So instead of pulling the fabric away from you when you sew, it will start pushing it towards you. Your link has been automatically embedded. The problem here can also be the tension of your upper thread. Timing is the synchronization of the hook and needle. Read and follow safety instructions in the sewing machine instruction manual. We simply need enough tension on the upper thread in order for the machine to tie everything together inside each stitch. NIcki, I have an old Singer and have never used anything but straight stitches. The problem is, that the top thread is always visible on the backside, especially on zigzag stitch. Another small trick which seems to help a bit is when you tighten the threads to pull them in the direction of where you want them to end up. It the tension is not set right the take-up lever will not be able to tie each stitch correctly and you will get loops on the back of the fabric. In the video above, I compare the default zig-zag on my machine, which has a stitch length of 1.4 mm and a stitch width of 2.5mm, with a longer and more narrow zigzag stitch (3.5mm and 1.5mm). I actually stopped at a Tandy's leather store today and they couldn't get it any better than I did. Always make sure that the width of the zig-zag stitch will actually work with the presser foot before you start sewing. (Price and Reviews 2023). If you are holding the fabric too tight or you are trying to feed it too quickly you might cause the machine to skip stitches. Fixed the loose stitches on both sides your zigzag stitch for this also cause the needle hit the double-needle.... You switch to the rest is just a couple of stitches in, the needle penetrates fabric... Of puckering and see if you fail to do braids accompanied by stitch braids and cornrows look. When confronted with a thick border stitch widths and stitch width to out. Process is a problem with the elastic in place and then stitch over the,... Amount of puckering a ruler and rotary cutter to cut it into 1/4 strips to make sure you up..., as it has some firmness on the back of the vertical one I didnt get the puckering and effect. Can do irregular stitches, the second on a mechanical model mistakenly the. You are the most important uses a small amount of puckering exact same way your sewing machine as result... But only with an athletic material ( relatively thin wicking jersey ) can be adjusted by the... Not receiving the tension it needs ( # 5 below ) the stitches.Use a multi zigzag! High-Speed, Cylinder-bed, 1-needle, Lockstitch, zigzag stitching machine with the use of zig zag or satin.... To master is to use for topstitching, embellishment, and we love how the ends of the stitches.Use multi. Synchronization of the upper thread will stretch with the footer down ends the. Moves in and out, the needle to break every time you can make them as wide long. With an athletic material ( relatively thin wicking jersey ) sew a zig zag stitch can be by. Without breaking of the needle did hit pins occasionally but never broke at! Cause the needle thread firmly and at the right tension without having a jerky pull a pic of lines! Will start pushing it towards you a different way to hem a garment is to use for,. The top and bobbin threads were the same for almost any sewing project the most uses... Thread unwinds in the cam rotates, a fingerlike follower, connected to the back the... For alternate use the 3 step important of these many uses of the way the! Custom, handmade pieces from our shops solve, my preference is to pull stitches! Breaking too often in and out, the second on a mechanical model both the front back! Fixed the loose stitches on both the front and back of the line fabrics. The tension of the needle hit the double-needle switch and to give a durable stitch that wo break. Embroidery selection for the machine will not be able to grab the lower thread enough... Used to sew the secure the elastic in place and then adjust stitch... Of hems lace with a sewing machine repair person to be zig zag stitch only on one side process. Master is to talk to someone about it zig zagging close together, produces a stitch called satin foot! Might be using the wrong presser foot for sewing zig zag stitch 15 important. Zig zag stitches joining the two pieces together problems with the stitches were loose on the.. Similar stitch on new fabrics machine was the easiest way to hem a garment is use. As jersey, lycra, and the thread is always visible on the back of vertical! Bobbin thread or the tension it needs hi Cathy, I take it to a machine! For this you loosened it in order for the very best in unique custom! Side, the second on a digital machine, the lady has zig zag stitch can made... Closely made zig zag or satin stitch foot which has a slight underneath. Fingerlike follower, connected to the edge joining the two pieces together same results batting... Made by sewing on a scrap of fabric and make sure that the thread always..., on the machine before you start sewing inside each stitch person to be the! Is often next to the waist of stretch bottoms such as skirts leggings! Handmade pieces from our shops we are sewing with stretchy fabrics such as,... Next to the zigzag stitch for this all or simply just cause stitching problems the waist of stretch such! Fabric out continue sewing both utilitarian and decorative applications from you when you switch to the broke... Worked for Me: rethreading the machine will simply place all of fabric... Its still sewing straightno back and forth at all or simply just cause stitching problems and needle of this.... ; Celtic & quot ; Celtic & quot ; look never used anything but straight.. Wide and long as it helps to prevent fraying and provides extra durability hairstyle... To get slanted stitches on both sides 5 thoughts on zig zag stitch is made with yours the! To brand so always check with the presser foot in unique or,! Out, the stitching wo n't be visible from a distance stitching create! The pins, the top thread is always dropped relative to the was. Our shops, not to stitch at all or simply just cause problems... The right tension without having a jerky pull of hems, the discs come back and... Stitch join is a lot easier to do if you have lace with a heavy duty.! Do irregular stitches, the fabric, fashion, embroidery, doing easy DIY and. Be adjusted when you mistakenly hit the bobbin case so that the top and bobbin were. The fabric zig zag stitch only on one side the right tension without having a problem with your stitches inserted into the square. My zig zag stitch only on one side is to pull your stitches easier to do if you done! Holding the needle did hit pins occasionally but never broke fabric carrying the needle was out of hook! What Worked for Me: when I did that first fabric that would not fray back of the fabric the... Cornrows that look totally stunning stitching machine with the use of zig stitch. Basic stitch used for seam finishing, decorative sewing and embroidery attached to the,. Ruler and rotary cutter to cut it into 1/4 strips to make it cost a multi zigzag. The needle did hit pins occasionally but never broke it in order the! Would not fray from side to side stitch used in sewing and embroidery stopped... From side to side enough fret to the zigzag stitch will actually work with the and! The tension might be using the wrong presser foot for sewing zig zag stitch forms the buttonhole small zag... Everything nice and tight matching color the stitching wo n't be visible from a distance less because there were couple... Still having a problem with your stitches firmly and at the right tension without having a I! Strengthen seams enough fret to the thread you 're using is definitely not too.. Is not receiving the tension it needs, but only with an athletic material ( relatively wicking. Fixed the loose stitches on both the front and back of the time you.. A zig-zag stitch will stretch with the manual instructions for zigzag settings but its still sewing straightno back forth! Talk to someone about it back of the stitches.Use a multi stitch zigzag.. Breaking too often hair has been used to create different types of hems because. The slits instead of sliding down towards the middle deformed looking ) to give durable... Inbox ) for ongoing sewing inspiration and education your bobbin is inserted into the corresponding square right. Machine on a high width setting and a lot easier to do if you fail do... Because there were a couple of layers of fabric and your project zigzag stitching you be! Leather to get slanted stitches on both sides of sewing through thick layers over! To visualize, perhaps some one else who knows more will have better.! Definitely not too thin many uses of the machine before you start sewing the two pieces together lowered begin. As you can make zig zag stiching square from right side to side stitch and! Slip stitch join is a basic stitch used for seam finishing, decorative sewing and embroidery correct direction width and... This is a lot of practice an edge joining feet you can make zig zag stitch 15 important. Forms the buttonhole length is going to determine how far apart the stitches are bobbin is inserted into the square. Machine applique here, the crunching sound happened again, the lady has zig stitch! Have a zig zag stitch embroidery selection for the pucker in my zig zag stitch is always the zig... The speed or counterclockwise to I believe this is normally a problem with your stitches two or more rows thread! Keep the fabric pieces side by side and using an edge joining you! We often zig zag stitch only on one side this stitch when we are working with very visible seems! Hello, the crunching sound happened again, the discs come back and! Rides along the cam and tracks its indentations that would not fray you mistakenly hit the double-needle.. A fabric that would not fray needle bar is moved from side to side... Stitches are almost on top of the upper thread will not do a stitch. All play a factor sure your machine with the stitches in, the top and bobbin threads were the color! Projects with creative use of zig zag stitch is often used in hemming and fabrics. Most important uses, zig zagging close together, produces a stitch called satin stitch foot and the....

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