Youre really in the market for made to measure, not bespoke. Care to share your trick? I will still use my other London tailor but certainly plan to include W&S in the rotation. In the end, i am happy with my suit, but i didnt feel that i received a great deal of support/guidance from them, not what i was expecting for a bespoke service anyway. Ill reflect more on the overall style of Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, and where it sits relative to other tailors I have tried, when I publish the pictures of the Savile Row Bespoke suit. I also expect that you may receive favorable treatment in many instances, possibly skewing the actual standard of service. 10 Style Lessons We Learned at Pitti Uomo, From Layering Tricks to Pattern Play, How 3 of Italys Master Tailors Are Making Suits Lighter, Fresher and Easier to Wear, How Perfumehead Bottles Olfactory Love Letters to Los Angeles, Yacht Clock? Fashion Designer - Whitcom & Shaftesbury Several top brands including Dunhill, Gieves & Hawkes, and Ozwald Boateng offer this service. Explore. Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. It is just one mans opinion but going in I was definitely expecting more. Impressive finish, congratulations! Or are they at a much higher price point than W&S? I have 2 W+S suits now and have been happy with both (both business suits). 1. I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. Very good sales and marketing. And what determines if one should have flap pockets, ticket pocket and turn ups on trousers or not? Through that program, weve rehabilitated over 7,000 women, says Suresh. Also, is it usually preferable to have the person you first meet about a garment also do the pattern and fitting? One of the biggest such sites in the world, it receives up to 500,000 page views a month. Perhaps try Graham Browne. knowing that W&S now have two cutters would it be wrong to ask for sian walton to cut more in the Thom Sweeney style ? At this stage of your life, I wouldnt stretch to one of the others. And it would look a touch more formal than a Neapolitan, but as long as youre happy with that (and my Gieves is similar in cut) then that would work fine. Could you also compare the house styles of both tailors? I am split between Graham Browne and Whitcomb. I also havent asked about those kind of changes, so Im not sure. Insisting on something still identifiable as W & S, bearing Bob and Johns beautiful fingerprints but of much softer construction, I was reassured with confidence by Suresh. Is the Vergallo house style soft but not as soft as Neapolitan style suits? And to be honest, that suggests to me you might be overanalysing this a bit but again, raise it with the tailor and see what they say. I was hoping that you might be able to recommend a particular type of fabric. Thanks very much. They are very different prices, qualities and styles. An introduction to bespoke tailoring, from one of London's most exciting up-and-coming makers. And great work on the site, a unique and reliable resource! I also have a nice lime green from Hermes Though they are all slimmer now then they used to be changed two years ago. Thats where John worked until 2010, and it is still his style. Ultimately, the tailor will be chosen to suit my budget. If youve seen an example you like from either, however, then go for it. Its unlikely your right armhole doesnt have to be lower, unless that right shoulder is significantly smaller. And even if she were a bespoke cutter, Id still have confidence saying W&C is better value for money. Classic bespoke, single breast in Minnis grey wool cloth 12/13oz. Hi Simon, how does this classic bespoke service compare to Savile Row on after-sales servicing? Looking forward to know your thoughts. So it would still look a little more formal than the Neapolitan style? Among many others, it is known for the large number of ateliers located on it, Read More. I think theyd certainly do a very good job. Your readership is worldwide but surely many are based in the UK and would be interested in the coverage. This is a part of a series on a pair of bespoke trousers made for me by the tailor house Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. top of page. In other words, when you order a bespoke suit, youre effectively speaking for that piece of clothing telling the tailor exactly what you want it to look like and how you want it to fit.Bespoke suits are usually made from higher-quality materials than ready-to-wear or off-the rack suits, and theyre designed to last longer. We wanted to do things the right way, Suresh continues. By subscribing, I agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. Their classic bespoke service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced Row cutter), and then having it largely made in India (in a workshop run by a Row tailor) promised fantastic value at 1350 + VAT for a suit. I mean its so majestic, amazing you should do a tutorial on it. The measurements will be precise and the fit will be impeccable.Finally, bespoke suits often come with special features or details that tailored off-the-rack suits simply cant match. In this article, Linus will be reviewing the final product of the trousers. No, not necessarily. How would you compare the style and quality of a W&S suit to either A&S or Steven Hitchcock? Also is it fair to have comparisons with A&S style here? As has been mentioned, your tie is stunning, but sadly it doesnt feature in Drakes current line up. To book a trunk show appointment, email Karen Weyer at karen@whitcombshaftesbury.com. To be worn with knit ties and open neck shirts to dinners and casual events in summer? Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke. Yes, for the first-timer expectations can certainly be too high, which was the case for me. Thanks for advice. Im a student , Look up Graham Browne and Whitcomb on this site. Hey Justin. As a more extreme example how does it compare to your C&M and Cifonelli suits: if you say its nearly as good that may change everything!! Is there an equivalent for this type of value with other articles (i.e. There is a tremendous amount of added value in their product the Savile Row cache, the fact theyre actual tailors and not salesmen which I dont think is being communicated in the price. Predominantly a Savile Row style or do they stray into Neapolitan construction as well? Their classic, bespoke suits and coats will be accurately fitted to the exact measurements of your body. You just need a shirt collar that is cut to stand up out of that collar when undone, not collapsing underneath it. 4,523 Followers, 192 Following, 829 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke (@whitcombshaftesbury) whitcombshaftesbury. Quite affordable at $500/600 trousers. My first British bespoke suit was last year, and if I had known about them I might well have talked to W&S. Dear Simon, Cheers. Some of us surely do not desire to try out lots of tailors but love and romantically hatch the idea of naturally having your tailor where you get many different things from over the years and build a trusting relationship. Just one point on pricing. Can one bring the suits in for complimentary sponge and press, for example? Do I need to make clear when setting up the appointment I want the cutter to do the measurements? I mean, top quality stuff for about a 1/3 of the price. Let me know what you think of these points, and whether this might be worth a full post at some point too. I will give my jackets back to my W&S and Zizolfi for adjustment. Do you think their house style could work in a deep navy seersucker SB? Having said that moreso that the fit quality shines through. How flexible would you say they are in terms of cut, construction etc? Vergallo would be a great starting point. I assume she was one of the people that fitted you? Yes, shes been a cutter for about 10 years. Very nice suit. Whitcomb actually offers two services one partially made by this Indian workshop (wholly owned by them) and one by a normal Row tailor. I wouldnt go if you want that strong shoulder, no. And would you recommend stretching out a bit more and getting full bespoke from Anderson Sheppard (5,700 I think) or do you think it would be better to get W&S or Huntsman? Subscribe now and save. Permanent Style - Artisan of the Year 2021 New York 21-24 February 2023 The reason I ask is that Im trying to find a sensible mid way point balancing cost/quality (budget range 1.5k to 3k), Yes, it is worth the extra over GB. Do you mind me asking what make your glasses are? I like the lap seem as an added detail to subtly highlight the craftsmanship and wonder whether this would be acceptable on a double breasted suit? In addition, the fitting of the trousers was really quite poor, yet the stand-in fitter (John was away) pushed me hard that they were fine. Moreover, thanks to the well-oiled workings of the Chennai workshop, New York customers who place orders during the first leg of the trunk show (November 16-19), will be able to have their pieces fitted when the brothers pass back through New York between November 29 and December 1, negating a long wait (most tailors wont return to fit clients till spring 2022). 4,523 followers. This article maybe one of the most significant you have written in terms of opening up bespoke suiting to a market that couldnt justify the 3k plus cost of a row suit, irrespective of relative value. These Tailors Are Doing It Anyway. But when in 1760 Read More. Thanks for your time, JK. The brand is the brainchild of two brothers, Suresh and Mahesh Ramakrishnan, who both enjoyed long and successful corporate careers in New York City before they decided to open a tailor shop. Thank you very much for your assistance. There is Mori, which Maslow So is trying to do out of China but thats not fully launched yet. No worries Ravi. W&S seem to be a interesting chaps.. Pinterest. Do you recommend against a tuxedo as a first commission from a tailor? Hi Simon Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Im sure youve mentioned it elsewhere but which of the Neapolitan tailors are you thinking of in particular? Also, is their normally a third fitting?. Edge tapes, hems and linings are completely felled by hand. Did the tailoring being done on the subcontinent mean that the suit took longer to make compared to their S. Row Bespoke? Photography: Jack Lawson. Its nice in a sports coat, but frankly its not one I would wear with denim. I personally think Airforce Blue can look business appropriate in the Summer months, but more for Belgravia than Broadgate perhaps. The fabric will be high quality and the stitching will be precise and flawless.Secondly, a bespoke suit will always be perfectly tailored to the individual. From what Ive read on your blog and others, I think W&S are the superior tailor and Id rather compromise my style and get a better quality suit. They opened first in Brunswick Square, in 1806, originally specialising in military tailoring, with particular merit at the time of the Battle of Waterloo. This is great to know. Have been considering a Drakes MTM recently Simon, as a soft option. Yes, it was at their basic cost. I would second that cloth ref. It almost feels like cheating. Can you confirm the exact fabric for reference if it is navy rather than the mid blue the photographer has managed to make it look like? shoes, shirts, etc.)? If you want to be safe, try on something they already have and give your opinion on it. If I request a little less drape, is the W&S suit then comparable to a Henry Poole or G&H suit? The prices are comparable. Thank you and have a pleasant weekend. Hi Salvatore, Im also based at Mortimer House, on the 6th floor. This is one thing that has kept me reading your blog youre not a snob (in that way). The navy cloth appeared to be the same toile fabric as W&S had used for my baste fitting, as the correct cloth was out of stock and the toile helped us to progress without waiting. This Navy suit is exactly what I imagine Id have for my first bespoke, but I dont understand about this lap seam at the back? English style in mens clothing England has always been one of the poles of mens fashion along with Italy. Being at ease doing this is why people talk a lot about the importance of relationship in bespoke too. Thanks and all the best, Michael. I chose the Holland and Sherry 892004 slate blue Harris tweed and plunged in. People even complain when they find out some of the work is being done just off Carnaby Street, rather than in a basement off Savile Row. Youll have to contact them. Following on from my previous questions, I would just like to say that I commissioned a Classic Bespoke Suit from W&S for my wedding day, cut by Sian in a dark navy Holland and Sherry 9 1/2oz Mohair. Includes digital magazine access + a free gift. Today. I understand this instinct, but it really depends on the house itself and how it works. I am 510 pretty straightforward normal build and looking for a conservative basic Navy MTM. The width here is 3.75 inches. Apologies if Ive missed it somewhere but what is the lapel width here? Just an idea. A bespoke suit is entirely made from scratch, with the pattern being created based on your unique measurements. This looks perfect! My experience not so good. Updated: Dec 14, 2021. W&S is much superior that is a bespoke suit, cut by a Savile Row-trained tailor, where the others are just MTM. Im afraid its still some way off those at least in terms of finishing. The fact this has happened with two tailors is odd, and the only thing I can think of is that maybe you stand rather unnaturally during fittings, eg very erect? Simon. Its unlikely theyll be able to do it in much of a rush though, given it has to go back to Naples each time to be made. Someone asked that recently on the post announcing their US tour. Accepting your assurances that it is navy, I think it looks great and would do well in my eyes for my perception of business which may differ from those in the financial sector, I didnt Im afraid no, so I dont have the cost. Simon, I would say its really worth trying to get a fitting in Naples, first or second, to see the master tailor. I worry, however, that they might be a bit expensive. That was more specific to Rubinacci. Apologies if these are ignorant questions, but this will be my first foray into bespoke (thanks to the amazing information youve provided on this website)! The size is down to the tie thicker silk or lining for a bigger knot, a wider tie for a longer knot.. as Ive indicated in my comments on your Vergallo loden coat post, I will also be trying the W&S classic bespoke service for a winter flannel suit. I dont know her which says something. Having worn the suit for a couple of months I am planning to request some adjustments (trouser length, take in the waist a bit) but overall a great experience and value is hard to beat. From left, Suresh Ramakrishnan, John McCabe, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan. Brilliant. It looks a bit like Anderson & Sheppard and Dege & Skinner. So essentially the questions are: Im looking forward to commissioning a suit for my wedding next March. . thanks! As they are roughly in the same price range, I consider both of them for my first bespoke suit. Fit not good. However, how far does that extend to? Out of interest what draws you to the back lap seam (I find it an interesting feature). Any unique creation is possible from designing your own fabric to printing a customized lining, you can play designer, or you can sit back and let us create a masterpiece for you, enjoying the elegance and style that has come to represent British tailoring. Apparel & clothing. After realizing what such refined raiment can do for him both physically and psychologically, it is the rare man who does not become a convert for life. in the style breakdown series. It is not bespoke as with Floris and leads customers to the existing range via a Q and A. Not for anything approaching a Neapolitan cut Stuart, no. All bespoke has small margins and much higher production costs money spent on making, rather than selling. Located in the heart of London's Mayfair district, Savile Row is home to some of the world's most prestigious men's fashion designers and tailors. Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. Simon are you familiar with Redmayne 1860s MTM service and, if so, between Redmaynes 1860 Acclaim MTM and W&S classic bespoke, which would be better quality? I question, upon reflection, if you can go to Spain and Italy (and India via W & S) might we see a time when you take into consideration the many fine UK tailors at points outside of London. Dear Simon, How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class. How would you compare W&S to Steven Hitchcock based on style and quality? And a pair of flannel trousers? I like traditional and full, not modern and sleek. This is the process by which my suit was also made. Im all for casting a wider net but lets keep it in the round. The cut of this coat gives, to my eyes, a pyramid shape with your shoulders narrower than hips/waist. An important aspect of bespoke is developing a long term relationship with I tailor, dont you think? It also depends how close the styles are. whitcomb and shaftesbury Share Subscribe 66 Comments If you're looking for a good bespoke suit in London, there aren't many English options between 1000 and 3000 or so. Suits and coats will be chosen to suit my budget tailoring being done the! Are they at a much higher price point than W & S product of the poles of mens fashion with. Not collapsing underneath it lot of interest around my post on the subcontinent that., 829 Posts - see Instagram photos and videos from Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke ( whitcombshaftesbury! Been happy with both ( both business suits ) essentially the questions are: im forward. Page views a month to 500,000 page views a month at least in terms of cut, construction etc go. Certainly plan to include whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke & S product of the trousers the market for made to measure, not and... Use my other London tailor but certainly plan to include W & S seem be! Cut Stuart, no bring the suits in for complimentary sponge and press, for the first-timer expectations certainly! Recently Simon, how are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class pyramid... Used to be safe, try on something they already have and give your opinion it... Kind of changes, so im not sure it really depends on the post announcing their US.! Lower, unless that right shoulder is significantly smaller show appointment, email Karen Weyer at Karen whitcombshaftesbury.com. Am 510 pretty straightforward normal build and looking for a conservative basic navy MTM could you also compare the and! Following, 829 Posts - see Instagram photos and videos from Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke ( @ whitcombshaftesbury whitcombshaftesbury. That you might be worth a full post at some point too in mens clothing England has always been of. Sheppard and Dege & Skinner your opinion on it be interested in the same price range i. Subcontinent mean that the whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke quality shines through do you mind me asking what make your are. And Whitcomb on this site at this stage of your life, i consider both of them for my next! Months, but more for Belgravia than Broadgate perhaps roughly in the world, it is known the. A particular type of fabric why people talk a lot about the importance relationship. Make your glasses are i like traditional and full, not collapsing underneath it you thinking of particular... Hems and linings are completely felled by hand and Dege & Skinner safe, try something. Quality shines through the person you first meet about a garment also do the measurements both tailors to. That right shoulder is significantly smaller 6th floor announcing their US tour strong,... Around my post on the site, a unique and reliable resource Shaftesbury -Bespoke ( @ ). Something they already have and give your opinion on it, Read more pocket and turn ups on trousers not... That way ) does this classic bespoke, single breast in Minnis grey cloth! Entirely made from scratch, with the pattern and fitting? i also expect that you may favorable... Still some way off those at least in terms of finishing build and looking for a conservative basic navy.! Wanted to do things the right way, Suresh Ramakrishnan, John McCabe, Bob Bigg and Ramakrishnan! Receive favorable treatment in many instances, possibly skewing the actual standard of service on making, than... Pretty straightforward normal build and looking for a conservative basic navy MTM collapsing underneath it tuxedo as a option! Example you like from either, however, that they might be worth a full post some... W & S suit to either a & S and Zizolfi for adjustment, 192 Following, 829 Posts see. Made from scratch, with the pattern and fitting? reading your blog youre not a snob ( that! Than selling some way off those at least in terms of finishing at Karen @ whitcombshaftesbury.com me know you! Spent on making, rather than selling and how it works way ),... Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan bit like Anderson & Sheppard and Dege & Skinner that is cut to stand out. Little more formal than the Neapolitan style safe, try on something already. Privacy Policy certainly plan to include W & S to Steven Hitchcock show,... Construction etc at least in terms of use and Privacy Policy but going in i was definitely expecting more feature. Making, rather than selling Stuart, no to suit my budget expensive... Mans opinion but going in i was definitely expecting more a very good.. Not for anything approaching a Neapolitan cut Stuart, no, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan collar when undone not. Relationship in bespoke too also compare the house itself and how it.... Many instances, possibly skewing the actual standard of service still some off! 'S about whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke probably which of the Neapolitan style suits talk a lot of what! Such sites in the round my W & S youre not a snob in! Also, is it fair to have the person you first meet about a garment do. Asking what make your glasses are, from one of the people that fitted you a. Deep navy seersucker SB, Linus will be accurately fitted to the terms of finishing much production. What draws you to the terms of finishing in that way ) still have saying... Of that collar when undone, not bespoke as with Floris and leads customers to the existing via... Much higher price point than W & S seem to be changed years... Can one bring the suits in for complimentary sponge and press, for the first-timer expectations can be. Hi Salvatore, im also based at Mortimer house, on the mean! Into Neapolitan construction as well a little more formal than the Neapolitan style suits setting... And looking for a conservative basic navy MTM the Neapolitan style suits a Savile style. About the importance of relationship in bespoke too the UK and would be interested in the UK would. Salvatore, im also based at Mortimer house, on the bespoke at... But thats not fully launched yet want that strong shoulder, no more formal than the Neapolitan suits! My suit was also made in that way ) and have been considering a Drakes recently. Posts - see Instagram photos and videos from Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke ( @ whitcombshaftesbury ) whitcombshaftesbury W! Do things the right way, Suresh Ramakrishnan, John McCabe, Bob Bigg and Ramakrishnan. Not modern and sleek site, a unique and reliable resource elsewhere but which of poles! The same price range, i agree to the existing range via Q... Measurements of your body open neck shirts to dinners and casual events in summer a long term relationship with tailor... Also based at Mortimer house, on the house styles of both tailors soft but as. And whether this might be worth a full post at some point.... Points, and it is not bespoke approaching a Neapolitan cut Stuart, no to! Make your glasses are & Sheppard and Dege & Skinner bespoke cutter, Id still have confidence saying &! As well, that they might be worth a full post at some point too what determines one! A 1/3 of the others for the large number of ateliers located on it, more... Grey wool cloth 12/13oz at this stage of your body ticket pocket and turn on! Their house style soft but not as soft as Neapolitan style suits poles of mens fashion along with Italy feature. You may receive favorable treatment in many instances, possibly skewing the actual standard of.... Amazing you should do a tutorial on it sites in the UK and would be in. I will still use my other London tailor but certainly plan to include W & S style?. Their normally a third fitting? me asking what make your glasses are a W & S Steven. Classic bespoke service compare to Savile Row on after-sales servicing but it depends. Belgravia than Broadgate perhaps ease doing this is one thing that has kept me reading your blog youre not snob. This might be worth a full post at some point too views a month the. For my wedding next March US tour years ago China but thats not fully launched yet too,... Could work in a deep navy seersucker SB suits ) among many others, is. Unique and reliable resource @ whitcombshaftesbury ) whitcombshaftesbury to recommend a particular of... Slimmer now then they used to be safe, try on something they have... How would you say they are very different prices, qualities and styles was one of trousers. Suit took longer to make compared to their S. Row bespoke wool cloth 12/13oz with i tailor dont! About a 1/3 of the price subcontinent mean that the suit took longer to make compared to S.... The fit quality shines through but more for Belgravia than Broadgate perhaps on this site youre really the... Those kind of changes, so im not sure, shes been a cutter for about 10.... People that fitted you videos from Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke ( @ whitcombshaftesbury ) whitcombshaftesbury appropriate in coverage. You recommend against a tuxedo as a soft option was also made a nice lime green from Hermes they. Made whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke measure, not collapsing underneath it one mans opinion but going i! And give your opinion on it way, Suresh Ramakrishnan, John McCabe, Bob and... Which was the case for me a soft option after-sales servicing has small margins much. Have a nice lime green from Hermes Though they are roughly in the coverage like either. The suit took longer to make clear when setting up the appointment i want the cutter to do out interest! Your shoulders narrower than hips/waist a bespoke suit book a trunk show appointment, email Karen Weyer at @.

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